are. Love happened. The Man pronounced the word at the moment when people
started choosing lightly woven garments over cashmere. Because Spring arrived
as well: volumes and doses are being lowered in order to give the full floor to
smiling, seducing faces. It would be clever to discuss this abrupt transition
of ice-cold to torridly hot, but we don’t feel like it yet. Later, promise.
more pertinent to break one’s head over the bottle to be presented at the first
date. A rosé? Does the Man-philosopher, poet, jazz fanatic “do” brosé*?
lose, so there we go. The Akakies rosé, fully xinomavro from Kir Yianni’s vineyards,
chilled in the bicycle basket. Hoping that neither the warm temperature, nor
the trembling hands, nor the belly butterflies endanger the freshness of the
bottle. The Man, declaring himself a non-connoisseur, discovers crisp fruit, cinnamon,
licorice and acidity. He tastes, smiles and confirms.
smiling, makes the world smile. His appreciation of the wine convinces me.
Within two days, we’ll be discussing the climate change.
covered itself in a lower temperature than the average Easter day. Easter eggs
used to be picked under rain showers but this year they would scatter in thousands
of pieces on the frozen soil. Climate change brings more “wet and cold” instead
of tropically hot. The villagers didn’t realize this yet, distant as they had
become from local agriculture. Their hope was shared but vain, because Easter
lunch was going to be wintery and the guests heavily dressed. The early morning
news item announcing the hottest spring day ever, totally missed its fools’ day
effect. The fire place was lit minutes before noon, the bottle of wine set
aside not to become boiling hot at service. Easter lamb doesn’t support acid,
juvenile, fresh wine and that’s why the hosting lady preferred a white ripe
wine to be served slightly cooled.
A wine from Peloponnesian Messinia, where
the Mediterranean diet is ready for harvest at each moment year round. Where
vines are allowed a short winter pause and produce grapes with international
character. Costa Navarino, whose name sounds far more global than any Greek,
owns vineyards, spa, luxury resorts and golf courses. His wines have to be “new
world” because so are his guests. The
hosting lady selected his chardonnay and it paired magically with the lamb. The
organic Kotyle 2013 spent a short period in barrel and got a modern label.
Kotyle, that is the name of the legendary clay cup which Nestor may have used
three millennia ago. In wine terms: coming in white chardonnay and red
cabernet. The chardonnay brought a
little sunshine to the table, we all started longing for a comfortably warm
between wine and food are heavily prepared these days. On a weekly basis seven
students graduating in “Wine and Gastronomy” test some selected wines on a menu
of Coovi’s hotel school in Brussels. This exercise is just one of a few,
waiting to be written on different fora. Weeks ago, I asked my students to dare
two different wines of the same winemaker and the same variety, with simple and
differently tasting food: potato stew, herring salad with granny smith, plain
chicken stock, bolognese sauce, rice with crispy vegetables.
beautifully young Monograph 2016 by Gaia and the monumental Gaia Estate 2014
(both agiorgitiko) were submitted to a separate tasting and to the above
rice, herring salad
black cherry, elderberry
cold rubber, kerosine
pepermint, melting wax
rice, herring salad
Monograph and Estate possessed strong tannins, but the first one was light,
easy drinkable and fresh while the second was weighty, complex and ripe.
The greasy stock
lubricated the mouth, giving a rollercoaster experience to the Monograph’s
tannins and offering a noble battle to the tannins of the Estate. By tempering
the bitter aroma, full entry was granted to the peppermint character of the Estate’s
with crisp greens on the contrary dehydrated tongue and mouth and became
metallic in contact with both red wines. The Estate’s tannins got unbearably
These and other findings were discussed when we finished
the rest of the bottles. The after-tasting synthesis is indispensable. Best of
all conclusions: although the perfect marriage may exist solely by the eye of
the witness, details say it all. In this case: a bit a soysauce with the rice
or a herring salad without mayonnaise would have turned the conclusion totally
vigorPosted by Vicky Sun, February 25, 2018 18:29:33
A casual rendez-vous
in Mechelen, with retsina. The Man asks if I want to join him for Fifty Shades and,
actually, I ‘m in a very generous mood. A Greek mezze, a bottle of wine, to
share as if it were saint valentine’s day. When I ask Maria of restaurant Zorba
what kind of resin wine she advises, the reaction “yes, THAT one” comes as fast
as her reply “The one from Tetramythos”.
and its four myths make me weak. Two brothers and a talented oenologist
cultivate and produce organically several varieties at an altitude of some hundreds,
even a kilometer above sea level. If these vines had eyes, they would enjoy a
divine sight over the sea. Natural cliffs make this northern part of the Peloponnesos
peninsula even more dramatic. I once nearly failed to overcome my agony when I
took the wrong road up to the domain. The unpaved road became narrower as the mountainsides
almost touched the car. Never again was I going to sip a drip of retsina! Fortunately,
the rescue was just around the next turn. As it was in the movie. And as it
almost was in the after-movie moments, if there wasn’t a police officer asking
vigorPosted by Vicky Sun, February 04, 2018 17:00:09
never complicate life in January or May, when shelves of kitchen cabinets are
stowed with storage food which didn’t make it to the christian party tables. The
owner of these cans shouldn’t worry either: freshness lasts, generally speaking, a bit beyond the
expiration date. Just to say, it didn’t come as a surprise to be invited to eating
asparagus in January. In a jar, in its juice, thick white asparagus. Straight
in a hot pan, with crispy peel and good taste, the question was “what do we
drink with that?” I had a Syn + White Dot
2014, moschofilero and roditis, left in the fridge.
Although we didn’t need
anything else, a white Belgian wine from winery Ten Gaerde joined the meal.
Both wines freshened up the oily, easy, wintery taste of the meal by adding a
touch of acidity and tension. Spring is far away, but we’re so good where we
A party organized
by two, I was one of them, was about to become a burden on my friends. During
the first hours I found myself preparing welcoming drinks to the few identified and a
bunch unknown. (Tio Tonic, by the way, cured
a couple of ladies feeling ill upon arrival and made the healthy even more
happy.) Midnight was approaching and I forced a few copains into a break-away from spicy pasta and fino sherry. I
wanted to gather impressions of wine lovers, not mainly professional somms, about
a juice I just heard of. Presenting Tselepos’ Melissopetra 2016, in festive and
crowdy conditions, it was a gamble.
Instantly the dj was ignored and the small
talk interfered by this Greek gewürztraminer. Royal, lush by nature, much more
than fruit, still elegant and fresh. €15 plus: no discussion! As it was my
first tasting of the Melissopetra as well, I couldn’t really add a
characteristic. Perhaps that the dark smokey undertone makes this Greek worthy
of comparison to Alsace gewurz.
days are with us: the agenda looks strangely empty, but a few evenings are to
look forward to. A long-time-no-see friend wants to meet, a globetrotter is
back in the country. It was a night like that, a few hours ago. A couple
invited six friends, to share a menu according to the game season: hit by surprise,
made with love. Wine marriages were my responsibility and I chose for Greek juice,
except for one champagne. The guests had no clue about Greek wine, so the
purpose was to strike with unpronounceable varieties and icons. Kidonitsa
paired with warm feuilleté goat cheese, green salad and honey. Xinomavro rosé
with crisp topinambour soup. The main course was wild boar stew, paired with a radically
biodynamic Goumenissa and a Super Toscan Nemea. The Goumenissa immediately
seduced the audience with deep dark fruit and Mediterranean aroma. The Nemea,
Megas Oenos, opened slowly but surely towards a remarkable complexity. Finally,
the glass contained a fresh, powerful and ripely tannic bouquet. This 2011
needs some time to oxidize, whether it be in a carafe 24h up front or in a
cellar for five more years. Dinner ended with home-made mango and coconut cake,
freshly and finely paired with the world’s best retsina (aged in wooden
barrels) and with a 2001 champagne disgorged in 2012.
was the dining audience’s verdict. I closed my eyes, thanked the lady chef and
reflected on the potential of this kind of tasting discoveries. Friendship and
composition, will be this year’s themes.