vigorPosted by Vicky Sun, February 04, 2018 17:00:09
never complicate life in January or May, when shelves of kitchen cabinets are
stowed with storage food which didn’t make it to the christian party tables. The
owner of these cans shouldn’t worry either: freshness lasts, generally speaking, a bit beyond the
expiration date. Just to say, it didn’t come as a surprise to be invited to eating
asparagus in January. In a jar, in its juice, thick white asparagus. Straight
in a hot pan, with crispy peel and good taste, the question was “what do we
drink with that?” I had a Syn + White Dot
2014, moschofilero and roditis, left in the fridge.
Although we didn’t need
anything else, a white Belgian wine from winery Ten Gaerde joined the meal.
Both wines freshened up the oily, easy, wintery taste of the meal by adding a
touch of acidity and tension. Spring is far away, but we’re so good where we
A party organized
by two, I was one of them, was about to become a burden on my friends. During
the first hours I found myself preparing welcoming drinks to the few identified and a
bunch unknown. (Tio Tonic, by the way, cured
a couple of ladies feeling ill upon arrival and made the healthy even more
happy.) Midnight was approaching and I forced a few copains into a break-away from spicy pasta and fino sherry. I
wanted to gather impressions of wine lovers, not mainly professional somms, about
a juice I just heard of. Presenting Tselepos’ Melissopetra 2016, in festive and
crowdy conditions, it was a gamble.
Instantly the dj was ignored and the small
talk interfered by this Greek gewürztraminer. Royal, lush by nature, much more
than fruit, still elegant and fresh. €15 plus: no discussion! As it was my
first tasting of the Melissopetra as well, I couldn’t really add a
characteristic. Perhaps that the dark smokey undertone makes this Greek worthy
of comparison to Alsace gewurz.
days are with us: the agenda looks strangely empty, but a few evenings are to
look forward to. A long-time-no-see friend wants to meet, a globetrotter is
back in the country. It was a night like that, a few hours ago. A couple
invited six friends, to share a menu according to the game season: hit by surprise,
made with love. Wine marriages were my responsibility and I chose for Greek juice,
except for one champagne. The guests had no clue about Greek wine, so the
purpose was to strike with unpronounceable varieties and icons. Kidonitsa
paired with warm feuilleté goat cheese, green salad and honey. Xinomavro rosé
with crisp topinambour soup. The main course was wild boar stew, paired with a radically
biodynamic Goumenissa and a Super Toscan Nemea. The Goumenissa immediately
seduced the audience with deep dark fruit and Mediterranean aroma. The Nemea,
Megas Oenos, opened slowly but surely towards a remarkable complexity. Finally,
the glass contained a fresh, powerful and ripely tannic bouquet. This 2011
needs some time to oxidize, whether it be in a carafe 24h up front or in a
cellar for five more years. Dinner ended with home-made mango and coconut cake,
freshly and finely paired with the world’s best retsina (aged in wooden
barrels) and with a 2001 champagne disgorged in 2012.
was the dining audience’s verdict. I closed my eyes, thanked the lady chef and
reflected on the potential of this kind of tasting discoveries. Friendship and
composition, will be this year’s themes.